f.k.a. Edo

NEIGHBOURHOODS




"They call this place an 'amusement district'. The giant digital screens fastened to the sides of buildings fall silent as midnight approaches, but loud-speakers on storefronts keep pumping out exaggerated hip-hop baselines. A large game centre crammed with young people; wild electronic sounds; a group of college students spilling out from a bar; teenage girls with brilliant bleached hair, healthy legs thrusting out from micro mini-skirts; dark-suited men racing across diagonal crossings for the last trains to the suburbs."
- Haruki Murakami, After Dark


Obviously everyone has different interests and agendas (eg. I generally avoid Akihabara and Odaiba), but all the wards of Tokyo offer unique insights, activities and things to eat/drink—whether it’s Edo-era Yanaka, hipster Nakameguro, frenetic Shinjuku, eclectic Shimokitazawa or salaryman-heaving Shimbashi.  



Shibuya



Shibuya Crossing, Tokyu Food Show (”depachika” basement food hall wonderland), Hikarie Building - D47 gallery on 8th Floor, view from 11th Floor), Fujiya Honten (standing bar for drinks and snacks), Cerulean Tower Bar Bello Visto on 42nd Floor (cocktails, jazz and view), Sake Stand, Junmaishu YATA (standing sake bar), Nagi (standing restaurant for sake and food) Potsura Potsura (kappo restaurant), Rakuchin (izakaya good for groups), Ryan (fancy but affortable soba) About Life Coffee.
Daikanyama



Kyu Asakura House (beautiful traditional house), Saturdays NYC (coffee and deck chills), Log Road (stroll), Saigoyama Park (view), T-Site (bookstore). 
Nakameguro



Isego Honten (sake shop & bar), The Hangar (sake bar), Niku to Wine (natural wine bar with good snacks), Tsutaya (bookstore), Meguro Ginza (stroll), Yuuzuki (kappo restaurant), Hamaguriya (izakaya).


Ebisu



Nonbei Yokocho (indoor food and drink alley), Kimijimaya (standing sake & wine bar), Foxtrot (record bar), Waltzstand Waltz (wine bar), Gem by Moto, Pizza De Michele, Tokyo Photographic Museum, Ifuu (yakitori), Bar Martha, Kaoriya (soba).
Shimokitazawa



Little Soul Cafe (record bar), Bear Pond Espresso (coffee shop), Rojiura Curry Samurai (soup curry), Salmon & Trout (cosy restaurant serving modern Japanese). 
Omotesando/ Aoyama/ Yoyogi 



UNU Farmers Market, Commune 2nd, Spiral Gallery, Narf Bar, Aoyama Oath/ Hachi/ Tunnel (clubs), Yoyogi Park, COBI Coffee, Shimizu-yu (sento), Omotesando Hills, Hasegawa Saketen (sake shop with a bar), Pignon, Parc (wine bar), Terra Australis, Bonobo, Umi no Ie. 



Yanesen (Yanaka, Nezu, Sendagi)



Scai the Bathhouse (gallery), Yanaka Ginza (stroll, eat, shop), Yanaka Beer Hall (beers and snacks).
Shimbashi/ Yurakucho/ Ginza/ Nihonbashi



Ozu Washi (traditional washi paper shop, also does classes in paper making), Pasona (urban farm), Amazake Yokocho (for traditional sweets & amazake), Hakobune (irori dining), Uoharu (seafood izakaya using Tsukiji market “waste” seafood).
Azabu/ Roppongi



Jomon (yakitori), B-Flat (jazz bar), Electrik Jinja (bar/ club), Mori Building (gallery and view), 21 Design Sight, Nezu Museum (gallery and garden), Toraya (wagashi), Gen Yamamoto (cocktails), Bunon (izakaya in old Japanese house serving natural wines), Osuzakura (wine shop specialising in Japanese wine), Kikuya (standing tempura izakaya).



Shinjuku



YATA (standing sake bar), Moto (standing sake bar), Yakitori in Piss Alley,  Golden Gai (bars), Shinjuku Gyoen (park), DUG (jazz cafe), Pitt Inn (jazz bar).
Ryogoku



Hokusai Museum, Edo Museum, Yayoi Kusama Museum, Edo-yu (sento), sumo match, Cheese no Koe (cheese shop specialising in Japan-made cheeses).
Katsushika



Yamamoto-tei (traditional house), Taishakuten-Sando (food street, ok to “tabe-aruki” ie. walk and eat), Shibamata Taishakuten (stunning Buddhist temple founded in 1629).

︎︎                About me           
日々旅にして旅を栖とす – 芭蕉
Each day is a journey, and the journey itself home – Basho