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f.k.a. Edo

“Whatever it is you're seeking won't come in the form you're expecting.”
Haruki Murakami

Things to See & Do

花鳥風月 (Kachou Fuugetsu) ”Flower, Bird, Wind, Moon” - Experience the beauties of nature, and in doing so learn about yourself.

See list


Where to start in a city of 160,000 restaurants.

Foods to try


Yawaragimizu” - lit. “softening water”, the water sipped between drinks to prevent & alleviate intoxication.

Drinks to try

こぬ人を Konu hito wo
まつほの浦の Matsuo no ura no
夕なぎに Yunagi ni
Yaku ya moshio no
身もこがれつつ Mi mo kogaretsutsu 
For the man who doesn’t come
I wait at the Bay of Matsuo—
in the evening calm
where they boil seaweed for salt,
I, too, burn with longing!

- Fujiwara no Teika

Travellers’ & Locals’ Picks 

There’s over 9 million locals and 20 million visitors each year to Tokyo - here are some of their tips.

Read 


A selection from the 23 faces of Tokyo. 


Travel Tips

From how to get in from the airport to where to throw your trash.

See tips 


Japan-based pieces I’ve written for different publications. Generally on food, food culture, drinks, drink culture.

“In a city with a Murakami-esque, raining-fish-and-vanishing-cats countenance, you become used to its random acts of magical realism.“


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日々旅にして旅を栖とす – 芭蕉
Each day is a journey, and the journey itself home – Basho